Using Permaculture Principles in Existing Urban Landscapes

As you probably know, permaculture is a holistic approach to - among other things - gardening and land use that aims to create sustainable and self-sufficient ecosystems. It can be applied to any type of landscape, including urban environments. Because of this, it is becoming an increasingly popular way to re-green cities and create more resilient natural communities within an urban context. But how can permaculture be incorporated into existing urban landscapes? Let's explore some strategies for doing just that.

• Start small: Permaculture can seem overwhelming at first, but it helps to start small and build gradually. A small herb garden or a container of tomatoes can be a great way to get started and see the results of your efforts quickly. As you gain experience, you can slowly expand the area of influence and incorporate more permaculture principles.
• Work with what you've got: One of the key principles of permaculture is to work with, rather than against, the existing ecosystem. This means taking into account the existing soil, climate, and other environmental factors when designing your garden. For example, if you live in an area with a lot of shade, you may want to focus on growing shade-tolerant crops and plants, rather than trying to create a sun-drenched garden in a shady spot.
• Use multi-functional plants: One way to maximize the productivity of small urban gardens is to use multi-functional plants. These plants serve multiple purposes, such as providing food, medicine, and habitat for wildlife. Examples include herbs, berries, and nitrogen-fixing plants like clover. By choosing multi-functional plants, you can maximize the space in your garden and create a more diverse and self-sustaining ecosystem.
• Create habitat: Urban environments can be inhospitable to wildlife, but incorporating permaculture principles can help to create habitats for birds, bees, and other important pollinators. This can be done by planting native species, providing water sources, and supplying nesting boxes and other shelters for wildlife.
• Use composting and other soil-building techniques: Soil is the foundation of any garden, and it can often be depleted or contaminated in urban environments. Incorporating permaculture principles into your urban garden can include composting, cover cropping, along with other soil-building techniques to create healthy, fertile soil. This will help to improve the overall health of your garden and increase its productivity.
• Connect with others: Finally, one of the best ways to incorporate permaculture into your urban landscape is to connect with others doing the same. Join a local community garden, attend a permaculture workshop, or find a local permaculture group to share resources, knowledge, and support.

Permaculture is a flexible and adaptable approach to sustainable land use that can be utilized in urban landscapes. By starting small, working with what you've got, using multi-functional plants, creating habitat, using composting and other soil-building techniques, and connecting with others, you can create a more sustainable, resilient, and productive urban environment.

Using planting spaces efficiently

Photo by Francesco Gallarotti on Unsplash

In the northern hemisphere in January, plant interactions are restricted to houseplant care or visiting a nursery with a heated greenhouse. Even though I can't get outside and work on a favorite permaculture project, it is a great time for learning about design ideas.

Many people live in areas where access to growing space is limited. Happily, there are a variety of techniques that can be used to create productive and biodiverse permaculture gardens, even in small spaces. Here are a few examples to get you started:

Vertical gardening: One way to maximize the productivity of small spaces is to grow plants vertically. This can be done by building trellises, installing hanging baskets, or using wall-mounted planters. Vertical gardening can also be combined with other techniques, such as companion planting and intercropping, to further increase the yield of the garden.

Companion planting: Companion planting involves growing different plants together that have a beneficial relationship. For example, planting beans near corn can increase the yield of both crops, as the beans can fix nitrogen in the soil, which is beneficial for the corn. Companion planting can also help to deter pests and attract beneficial insects.

Intercropping: Intercropping is a technique in which different crops are grown together in the same space. This can be done by planting different crops in alternating rows or by using a method called "succession planting," in which different crops are planted in the same space at different times. Intercropping can help to increase the yield of the garden and can also help to deter pests and diseases.

Mulching: Mulching is a technique that involves covering the soil with a layer of organic material, such as leaves, straw, or grass clippings. Mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil, which can be especially beneficial in small gardens that may dry out quickly. It also helps to suppress weeds and add organic matter to the soil as it breaks down.

Keyhole gardening: Keyhole gardening is a technique that involves creating a circular garden bed with a central composting area. This allows for efficient use of space and easy access to the center of the bed for composting and maintenance. Keyhole gardening is also a good technique for small spaces because it allows for a high density of plants to be grown in a small area.

Square foot gardening: Square foot gardening is a method that involves dividing the garden bed into small squares and planting different crops in each square. This allows for efficient use of space, easy maintenance, and a high density of plants. It also allows for companion planting and intercropping and can be a good technique for small spaces.

These are just a few examples of techniques that can be used to create productive and biodiverse permaculture gardens in small spaces. There are The most effective approach will depend on the specific conditions of the site, such as the climate, soil, and available resources. With a thoughtful design and careful consideration of the available techniques, it is possible to create a small but productive and diverse permaculture garden that can provide food, medicine, and other resources.

Design Principles for Small-Scale Urban Projects

I recently moved to a new location where, circumstances being what they were, I ended up with much less space on the premises to implement permaculture projects. This situation has caused me to look more into not just which kinds of projects are feasible for urban sites, but also which permaculture principles are most applicable to site designs for urban locations.

I ended up with a list of eleven different design principles. It didn't really surprise me that so many seem to fit well for urban design - permaculture principles are inherently very adaptable to many different environments. I believe that these are especially well-suited for small-scale urban projects. They address some of the unique challenges and opportunities found when designing permaculture systems for urban environments.

1. Observe and interact: Urban environments are often highly altered and can have a complex mix of natural and human-made elements. Observing and interacting with the site can help you understand how to work with these elements and design a system that is well-suited to the specific conditions of the area.
2. Catch and store energy: Urban environments often have limited space and resources, so it's important to make the most of what is available. By catching and storing energy in the form of water, food, and other resources, you can create a more self-sufficient and sustainable system.
3. Obtain a yield: Productivity is a crucial consideration in small-scale urban permaculture systems, as space is limited and resources are often scarce. Incorporating a variety of plants, and even animals, that can provide food, medicine, and other resources can help to maximize the yield of the system.
4. Apply self-regulation and accept feedback: Urban environments can be highly dynamic and subject to rapid change, so it's important to create systems that can adapt and change over time. Self-regulation and feedback mechanisms can help the system to respond to changing conditions and improve over time.
5. Use and value renewable resources and services: Urban environments often rely heavily on non-renewable resources and services, such as fossil fuels and municipal water systems. Incorporating renewable resources and services into the permaculture system can help to reduce dependence on these non-renewable resources. Urban areas frequently have waste streams that a creative can tap into and utilize, such as tree branches, scrap lumber, and much more.
6. Produce no waste: Urban environments can generate a lot of waste, as I indicated above, and finding ways to recycle and reuse this waste can be a key aspect of designing a sustainable and resilient system, whether the "waste" is generated on-site or whether it is produced nearby. This is often very helpful when finding needed materials to implement the design. At one site, one of the neighbors had horses which generated a good amount of manure. The manure was just waste for the neighbor but was put to excellent use on the site as a source of much-needed organic material and nitrogen.
7. Design from patterns to details: Urban environments can be complex and difficult to understand, so starting with an understanding of the overall patterns of the system can help to make sense of the details.
8. Integrate rather than segregate: Urban environments often have a mix of different elements, such as buildings, roads, fences, and empty lots. Creating systems that are integrated and interconnected can help to maximize the potential of these elements and create more resilient and sustainable systems.
9. Use small and slow solutions: Urban environments can be fast-paced and subject to rapid change, so small-scale, incremental solutions can be more adaptable and sustainable in the long term. This goes hand-in-hand with observing and accepting feedback: watching how your design implementation responds over time gives you an excellent idea about what pieces need tweaking (and something always needs tweaking).
10. Use and value diversity: Urban environments can be diverse and multicultural. Incorporating a wide variety of plants, animals, and other elements can help to create a more resilient and adaptable system. And, remember, a wide variety does not necessarily indicate a large quantity, which is why this is appropriate for urban projects.
11. Use edges and value the marginal: Urban environments often have a lot of "edges" and marginal areas, such as sidewalks, medians, rooftops, and wild or unmanaged spaces. These areas can be highly productive and biodiverse, and incorporating them into the permaculture system can help to make the most of the limited space available.

In summary, these design principles are tailored to work with the unique characteristics and constraints of small-scale urban permaculture systems, such as limited space, diverse elements, and the need for adaptability and resilience. They help to ensure that the permaculture system is well-suited to the specific conditions of the urban environment and can be sustainable in the long term.

Honey Bees and Native Bees

Is maintaining your own beehive worth the time, cost, and effort?

Keeping bees can be a rewarding experience, but it does require a significant investment of tie and money. Here are a few things to consider when deciding whether to start beekeeping:

• Time commitment: Keeping bees requires regular maintenance and monitoring. You will need to check on your hives regularly to ensure that the bees have enough food, that they are healthy, and that the hive is free of pests and diseases. This can be a time-consuming task, especially during the busy seasons of spring and summer.
• Cost: Starting a beekeeping operation can be expensive. You will need to purchase the bees and the equipment, which can include hives, protective gear, tools, and a honey extractor. The cost of the equipment and bees can range from several hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on the quality and quantity of equipment you purchase. Additionally, you will need to spend money on ongoing expenses such as feed, treatments for diseases and pests, and replacements for lost colonies.
• Climate and location: The success of your beekeeping operation will depend in part on the climate and location where you live. Some areas have a longer foraging season for bees, and some climates are better suited for bees than others. It's important to research the beekeeping conditions in your area before getting started.
• Risk: Keeping bees comes with certain risks, including the possibility of stings, the spread of disease and pests, and colony losses. In addition, honey production can be affected by weather and other environmental factors.
• Legal requirements: There may be legal requirements associated with keeping honeybees and each state has different laws. It's important to research and comply with local laws and regulations related to beekeeping before getting started.
  

Despite the effort and cost, many people find beekeeping to be a rewarding and enjoyable hobby. The honey produced by the bees can be a tasty treat, and the bees play an important role in pollinating plants in your area. Also, beekeeping can be a great way to connect with nature and learn more about the natural world. If you're interested in beekeeping, I would recommend you start by taking a beginner beekeeping class or reading some books on the subject. This will give you a good introduction to the basics of beekeeping and help you determine whether it's something you're willing and able to invest in.

What are the differences between caring for a beehive and promoting native bees?

Because working with a colony of honey bees and encouraging native bees are two different approaches, it makes sense that each method has its own set of benefits and challenges. As you know, honey bee colonies are managed and maintained by beekeepers, who are responsible for providing the bees with a safe and healthy environment, protecting them from pests and diseases, and ensuring that they have enough food to survive. Honey bees are social insects that live in large colonies, and they are known for their ability to produce honey, wax, and other hive products. They are also important pollinators and play a critical role in the pollination of many food crops. However, honey bees require regular management and monitoring, and can be affected by a number of diseases and pests. Additionally, honey bee colony collapse disorder has become a significant problem in recent years, highlighting the importance of proper management and care. Native bees, on the other hand, do not require the same level of management and monitoring as honey bees (because they're "wild"). Instead, the focus is on promoting and protecting the natural habitat of these bees. Native bees are not social insects like honey bees; they live alone and do not produce honey or wax. Instead, they focus on collecting nectar and pollen to provision their nests. Although they are also important pollinators, native bees are often not considered as effective at pollinating as honey bees are. However, their nesting habits make them more resilient to colony collapse disorder and other problems that afflict honeybees. Promoting wild solitary bees involves creating habitats that provide the resources these bees need to survive, such as food and nesting sites. This can be done by planting a diverse range of flowers, shrubs, and trees that bloom at different times of the year. Also providing nest boxes and other nesting sites for the bees will help establish them in your area. This approach to beekeeping is less labor-intensive and less costly than maintaining honey bee colonies, and it can also help to promote biodiversity in the environment.

Is it possible to encourage native bees even if you already have your own beehive?

If you already have a honey bee hive, there are several steps you can take to encourage native bees to visit your garden or property:

• Plant a diverse range of flowers: Providing a variety of flowers that bloom at different times of the year will give native bees a consistent food source throughout the growing season. Choose plants that are native to your area, as these will be most attractive to the native bees in your region.
• Avoid using pesticides: This should really be a no-brainer. Pesticides can harm or kill native bees (and other beneficial insects, as well). Instead, use integrated pest management practices that rely on natural predators and other natural methods to control pests.
• Provide nesting sites: Many native bees, especially solitary bees, need specific types of nesting sites. You can provide these by creating small bundles of hollow plant stems or providing artificial nest blocks that mimic natural cavities.
• Create shelter: Native bees need shelter to protect them from the elements and predators. You can provide this by planting dense shrubs and ground covers, or by creating structures such as rock piles or brush piles.
• Be water-wise: bees require water to survive and to be able to clean their bodies. You can create a shallow water basin or birdbath, or even add pebbles and rocks to a larger container to create an accessible surface for the bees to land on.
• Consider leaving some areas undisturbed: Native bees often nest in undisturbed, natural areas, such as bare ground or leaf litter. Consider leaving small, unmanicured areas of your property for native bees to nest and forage.

It's also important to note that having honey bee hives on your property doesn't mean you are not allowed to have native bees. Honey bees and native bees have different nesting habits and foraging patterns. Honey bees will forage at a farther distance from the colony than most native bees and they are also active at different times of the day. This means that the two types of bees can often coexist without competing for resources. Remember that promoting native bees is beneficial for the ecosystem and helps to increase biodiversity and pollination, which can lead to increased crop yields. By encouraging native bees in addition to your honey bee colony, you will be contributing to the health and well-being of your local environment.

No-Till

No-till is a farming method that involves planting crops without disturbing the soil through tillage. In traditional tillage systems, the soil is turned over or otherwise disrupted prior to planting, which can have negative impacts on soil structure and fertility. No-till farming, on the other hand, preserves the soil structure and minimizes soil disturbance, which can have several benefits for soil fertility and function.

One of the main benefits of no-till farming is that it helps to maintain and improve soil structure. When soil is tilled, it can become compacted, which can lead to poor drainage and reduced oxygen levels. No-till farming helps to prevent compaction, which can lead to healthier soil structure and improved root growth.

No-till farming can also help to increase soil organic matter, which is an important component of soil fertility. Organic matter helps to improve soil structure, water-holding capacity, and nutrient availability. When soil is tilled, organic matter is often disrupted and can be lost through decomposition or erosion. No-till farming helps to preserve organic matter and can lead to an increase in soil organic matter over time.

In addition to improving soil structure and fertility, no-till farming can also have environmental benefits. It can help to reduce erosion, which can protect water quality and reduce the amount of sediment that ends up in streams and rivers. No-till farming can also help to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, as it requires less energy to implement than traditional tillage systems.

Overall, no-till farming can be an effective way to improve soil fertility and function while also reducing the environmental impacts of farming.

Soil Structure and Crop Productivity

Soil structure refers to the way in which soil particles are arranged and how they aggregate together to form larger clumps or peds. This structure can have a big effect on how well crops grow and thrive. Here's why:

First of all, soil structure can affect how much water and nutrients are available to plants. Soils with good structure tend to have better water-holding capacity and drainage, which means that plants have an easier time accessing the water and nutrients they need. Soils with poor structure, on the other hand, may be prone to compaction or erosion, which can make it harder for plants to get the resources they need.

Soil structure can also affect the physical environment in which plants grow. Soils with good structure tend to be more friable and easier for plants to grow in, while soils with poor structure may be harder and more compact, which can make it difficult for plants to establish roots and grow effectively.

In addition, soil structure can have an impact on the presence and activity of soil microorganisms, which play a big role in helping plants grow. Soils with good structure tend to have higher levels of beneficial microorganisms, which can help to improve soil fertility and support healthy plant growth.

Help Your Soil Be Drought Resilient

 I recently finished reading Dale Strickler's book, The Drought Resilient Farm. Much of his focus was on the midwest portion of the USA. And there is a good deal about how to provide for livestock, especially cattle, during droughts. However, as I read I realized that Dale knows a lot about how to prepare the soil to be capable of supporting crops during dry times. And even more than that, explaining how to help the land provide enough moisture for plants, whether those plants are crops or pasture, was actually his main intent.

Source

Here are my key takeaways from Dale's book on how to make your soil, whether in a garden plot or a crop field, more "drought-ready":

1. Infiltration - Enabling water to be absorbed into the soil, or infiltration, is, understandably, super important. Otherwise, it just runs off (usually causing erosion) or it evaporates. Either way, it isn't around for your plants to drink up. You can increase the infiltration rate by avoiding tillage, using mulch and/or cover crops, adding fresh (yes, fresh) manure, leaving crop residues to decompose in place, and using a mycorrhizal fungi inoculant.
2. Retention - Once the water is in the soil it only helps if it stays in the soil until it is needed. Evaporation and leeching reduce the moisture that will be available for plants. The practices that help reduce water loss through evaporation or leeching include using windbreaks (even for small gardens this is beneficial for soil and plants), covering any bare ground with organic material, planting cover crops, adding manure, inoculating perennial seeds with mycorrhizal fungi, and using biochar.
3. Access - It doesn't matter if the soil holds all the water a crop needs if the plant's roots cannot get to the water. Keeping the soil "fluffy" is important. You can help maintain the deeper soil by (you guessed it) not tilling, planting cover crops in the fall that have deep roots (turnips, kale, forage radish, and collards are especially beneficial), increasing organic matter in the soil, appropriate mineral fertility (which causes a better functioning plant which results in more efficient water usage), and inoculate with mycorrhizal fungi.

By this point, you may feel you read the same thing three times. The fact of the matter is, many of the same practices support all of the vital functions that enable the soil to have sufficient moisture content, even during dry times. These include no-till, keeping a high level of organic matter in the soil, avoiding bare soil, and using mycorrhizal fungi.

Dale has a lot of detail on the how and why of each of these recommendations. Although he is oriented toward large-scale operations, there is a lot that can be applied to garden plots and permaculture landscapes.

Useful "weeds" - List of Ten

There are a lot of plants in urban/suburban areas, and throughout North America and the world for that matter, that are common weeds. However, many of these plants have good uses. Since they are hardy enough to be labeled as weeds, you know that they would require little work on your part to get them established. And when they are in the right place, they can be quite beneficial. In fact, a weed is really, as David Holmgren puts it, just "a plant out of place" (http://holmgren.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/PPQ-26-issue-3-2011-Weeds.pdf). Weeds are pioneer species doing what pioneers do: move into open areas and naturalize, or become native to that place.

1. Plantago spp. (Plantain)
   →http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plantago

   

   Common plantain - Source

   
   →http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Plantago+major

   • Nutrient accumulator

   • Medicinal - I have found it to be especially good for insect stings and spider bites.

   • Edible - Samuel Thayer says it is not much as a food, but Elias & Dykeman recommend it with emphasis on collecting and grinding the seeds into a flour that is used to make pancakes.

2. Portulaca oleracea (Purslane)
   →http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portulaca_oleracea
   →http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=a603
   →http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/power-packed-purslane.aspx

   

   Purslane - Source

   • Medicinal - this plant has traditionally been used by many different cultures throughout
   the world for many different symptoms, having been especially used in traditional Chinese medicine. Scientific studies have been performed on the effectiveness of purslane in dealing with a variety of medical concerns.

   • Edible - during the warm summer months this grows throughout my yard/garden and to keep it in check I make sure to eat plenty of it in my salad. In addition to being a tasty green, it is also extremely healthy, being best known as the having the most omega-3 of any leafy vegetable, as well as having good amounts of many vitamins and minerals. Check out the wikipedia link to see the whole nutritional listing.

   • Companion - this plant makes a pretty good ground cover and helps maintain moist soil. Some plants, including corn, will "follow" purslane roots through harder soil that they could not penetrate on their own.

   • Nutrient accumulator - its impressive list of beneficial minerals helps indicate just how well this plant does at finding and collecting nutrients.

   • Decorative - many nurseries actually sell purslane as a decorative ground cover.

   • Self-reseeding - it can even finish ripening the seeds after the plant is pulled up.

   • Chicken and rabbit feed - both of these animals can gain great nutritional benefits from purslane.

3. Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion)
   →http://www.wildmanstevebrill.com/Plants.Folder/Dandelion.html
   →http://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Taraxacum+officinale
   →Specimen Spotlight: Dandelion

   

   Dandelion flower - Source

   • Insectary - as a very early starting plant (I've seen green plants of this species in February), it is often one of the first sources of food for bees. In addition, it continues flowering from early spring throughout the summer, providing for a hungry host of helpful insects.

   • Nutrient accumulator

   • Thrives on neglect

   • Shade to full sun

   • Edible - it is becoming a very popular salad green. Be sure to pick the leaves before the plant flowers, otherwise they tend to turn bitter. The flowers add some nice color to a salad. You can also eat the large taproot. Cook it like you would other root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, or potatoes.

   • Perennial and self-reseeding

   • Medicinal - as is the case with most, if not all, nutrient accumulators. It has been theorized that the ability of these plants to gather hard-to-reach nutrients might have something to do with their medicinality.

   • Flowers! - okay, so dandelion flowers may not seem like much to look at, but little children love them!

4. Chenopodium album (Lamb's quarters)
   →http://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Chenopodium+album
   →http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/lambsquarters.html
   →http://www.susunweed.com/herbal_ezine/September09/healingwise.htm

   • Edible - I add the leaves in moderate quantities to my spring and summer salads. The
   

   

   Lamb's quarters - Source

   seeds can be used to create a flour or are cooked like rice - just be certain to rinse well to remove the bitter saponins. A sibling of quinoa and a cousin of spinach. The early shoots can be cooked and eaten like asparagus. Excellent source of vitamin A, vitamin C, and calcium.

   • Companion - very friendly towards corn; also benefits cucurbits, such as cucumber, pumpkin, and watermelon. Louise Riotte also says that it invigorates zinnias, marigolds, peonies, and pansies.

   • Nutrient accumulator - The Rodale Herb Book indicates that the long tap root does a good job of pulling up nutrients from the soil.

   • Self-reseeding - the seeds are pretty tiny, and there are lots of them just on one plant, so it doesn't take much for one plant to become a lot of plants.

   • Wildlife - speaking of seeds, this plants seeds are used by a variety of small mammals and birds as a significant food source.

5. Amaranthus retroflexus (Redroot pigweed)
   →http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/redroot_pigweed.html
   →http://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Amaranthus+retroflexus
   →http://www.bio.brandeis.edu/fieldbio/Edible_Plants_Ramer_Silver_Weizmann/Pages/spp_page_amaranth.html

   

   Redroot pigweed - Source

   • Edible - as a wild variety of amaranth, the seeds are quite tasty albeit very small. They can be ground into flour or cooked as they are. They make a great thickener for a soup to give it more substance. You can also eat the young greens just as you would spinach. Very rich in iron and a good source of vitamins A and C.

   • Dye - can be used to make red, green or yellow dyes

   • Drought resistant - and handles hot weather just fine, too. At least, I never noticed that it was wilting in the sweltering heat of Kansas (or Utah) in late July.

6. Lactuca serriola (Prickly lettuce)
   →https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactuca_serriola
   →http://commonsensehome.com/prickly-wild-lettuce/

   →http://www.naturalmedicinalherbs.net/include/searchherb.php?herbsearch=prickly+lettuce&x=0&y=0
   →http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Lactuca+serriola
   →http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/weeds/plants/prickly_lettuce.htm
   

   

   Prickly lettuce - Source

   • Edible - raw leaves which are best eaten while still very young, before there are much if
   any spines. They go great in a green weed salad! Considered the wild progenitor of domestic lettuce, which means it has not been selectively bred over time to be extra tasty. And that might explain why some use it as the bitter herb in their Passover meal. It is possible to use the young shoots as an asparagus substitute. And the seeds produce an edible oil that, when refined, is considered to have a pleasant flavor.

   • Medicinal - this pioneer is very widespread, so the medicinal uses vary. The Navajo used it as an emetic (vomit inducer) and the Ancient Greeks as a treatment for eye ulcers. The sap, or "milk", is, according to PFAF, "used for its anodyne, antispasmodic, digestive, diuretic, hypnotic, narcotic and sedative properties."

   • Insectary - the flowerheads provide nectar and pollen which are used as sources of food by bees.

   • Self-reseeding

7. Veronica spp. (Speedwell)
   →http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Veronica+agrestis
   →http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veronica_(plant)
   →http://www.herbs2000.com/herbs/herbs_speedwell.htm
   →The Secrets of Wildflowers: A Delightful Feast of Little-Known Facts, Folklore, and History

   • Insectary
   

   

   Speedwell - Source

   • Thrives on neglect

   • Groundcover - it can outcompete grass. This may or may not be a plus, depending on if and where you want grass. But you can use this as a mix with other "trample-friendly" plants, such as clover, to create a less resource-hungry yard.

   • Edible - although just barely. Ken Fern considers it a famine food - only good when you have nothing else.

   • Self-fertilizing, self-reseeding and some species put out runners

   • Medicinal - the benefits of each species vary somewhat
   • Flowers! - these are often quite small and easy to miss, but they are beautiful when they are noticed

8. Erodium cicutarium (Redstem Filaree or Stork's Bill)
   →http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Erodium+cicutarium
   →http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veronica_(plant)
   →http://www.herbs2000.com/herbs/herbs_speedwell.htm
   →http://www.eattheweeds.com/erodium-circutarium-geranium-carolinianum-two-bills-you-want-to-get-2/

   • Insectary
   

   

   Stork's Bill - Source

   • Thrives on neglect

   • Drought and heat resistant - tends to be found more in hot and dry regions, so naturally it doesn't tend to stress out when the weather is hot and dry.

   • Dye - makes a green dye and does not need a mordant to set the color.

   • Groundcover - it tends to stay low to the ground, which makes it survive mowing. Being a hardy plant, it also can handle a decent amount of foot traffic.

   • Edible - the entire plant is fine either raw or cooked and is best when young, which is also when it tends to taste similar to parsley.

   • Self-reseeding and some species put out runners

   • Medicinal - a leaf tea is used to induce sweating and as a diuretic.
   • Flowers! - quite pretty in their simplicity

9. Lamium amplexicaule (Henbit or Henbit Deadnettle)
   →http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Lamium+amplexicaule
   →http://www.ediblewildfood.com/henbit.aspx
   →http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=LAAM
   →Edible Wild Plants by Thomas S. Elias and Peter A. Dykeman, pg. 116

   • Insectary - important early source of pollen and nectar to honey bees.
   

   

   Henbit - Source

   • Common name given because many chickens especially like to eat this plant

   • Hummingbirds also like this plant for the nectar in its flowers

   • Edible - the whole plant can be eaten or used to make a tea. Although it is in the Mint family, it does not have a mint flavor. Some say that it tastes similar to kale, which is why I recommend it mostly as a salad add-in. Also, you can pick the flowers and suck the nectar out of them, which kids seem to love doing.

   • Self-reseeding and can put down roots from stems that are pressed against the ground (layering).

   • Mildly medicinal
   • Flowers! - if you look close, you can see that these are quite exquisite flowers: they remind me of orchids.

10. Rumex crispus (Narrow-leaved Dock)
    →http://www.pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Rumex+crispus
    →http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/weeds/plants/curly_dock.htm
    →https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumex_crispus
    →http://www.eattheweeds.com/rumex-ruminations/

    • Wildlife - Many birds and some small mammals use dock seeds as a wintertime food source.
    

    

    Narrow-leaved Dock - Source

    • Drought resistant

    • Dye - the root is used to make a dye varying between mustard and brown

    • Edible - but often bitter. However, sometimes bitter is good/desired. 

    • Self-reseeding and can put down roots from stems that are pressed against the ground (layering). The seeds can remain viable for more than fifty years!

    • Medicinal - used to increase red blood cell count and as a treatment to external wounds, among many other things.

Now coming to you from ... Kansas!

Long time, no post. Sorry 'bout that. Life has been crazy as only life can be. At any rate, I thought that now would be a good time to inform my readers that I am no longer reside in Utah with a small suburban plot. I have relocated to a small (~11 acres) country farm in Kansas. I am more or less in the same hardiness zone, strangely enough, but the growing season is (according to what the locals tell me) much longer. And, being out in the country with eleven acres, I have a bit more space with which to play around and on. :-)

We are working to rehabilitate the farm: it was previously a private feedlot for beef cattle where synthetic, conventional and chemical means of "fixing" the problems were the standard operating procedures.

We have much to learn, as we have not had much experience with large poultry, large flocks, nor medium-sized mammals, all of which we are learning how to manage. And, as you may know, our main method for learning how to do something is to, first, read a bit about it in a book, and, second, go full steam ahead in trying it out. At this time we have goats, sheep, pigs, geese, ducks, guineas, turkeys, chickens, rabbits, dogs, cats, and hedge hogs. Phew!

I intend on planting a lot of things this spring, which, for this area, is right around the corner. I did dig up and bring with me from Utah many of the plants that were small enough, including the trees that I had just transplanted the previous spring. Here' to hoping that they take to their new environment.

And, just like anywhere else, there are new native/naturalized plants to appreciate. These include fruiting mulberry trees and wild plums.

Anyway, I just wanted to let you know about my change of scenery and the opportunities that it is providing. I hope to continue to make posts along the lines of previous posts - specific species, plant use categories, permaculture practices, etc. - but I also expect to throw in things that may be pertinent to my region. Stay tuned and let's see where this ride takes us!

Specimen Spotlight: Aronia

Aronia (Aronia melanocarpa)

Black chokeberries - Source

Although this plant is a native to North America there are relatively few people who know about it. Please let me introduce you to the producer of the original superfruit, Aronia melanocarpa. Superfruit it may be, but, to those who have tried the fruit, it is best known as black chokeberry (not chokecherry - totally different plant) because of its super power: ultimate power pucker. Let's continue on to see what this plant is all about.

• Superfruit - as mentioned, this was the first fruit to be called a superfruit, meaning it is incredibly beneficial for one's health. It is now coming back into the spotlight, having been rediscovered and starting to be re-hyped. New hype or old, the bottom line is that this fruit provides great things to your body, such as normalize blood pressure, strengthen blood vessels, support natural immunity, and delay the effects of aging, just to name a few.
• Antioxidants - going along with the superfruit portion above, aronia berries have been shown to have one of the highest antioxidant levels found in fruit. Plus, in addition to providing the most and best antioxidants, they also enable the blood's capacity to carry antioxidants.
• Native - aronia is a shrub that natively grows in eastern North America: 

  

  Native distribution in green - Source

• Plant alternative - aronia is recommended as an alternative plant for some landscape plants that have been classified by some groups as invasive species, including winged euonymous, privets, some honeysuckle species, buckthorn, and some viburnum species.
• Perennial
• Blossoms!
• Edible - as mentioned, the fruit is often not regarded as edible when fresh picked, due to its intense tartness. However, when mixed with other foods or made into a juice or jam, that is when it really begins to shine.
• Food coloring - the dark blue juice can be used as a high quality, stable, natural food color
• Tolerant - it is disease, drought, pollution, and insect tolerant. Add to that list soil compaction, salt, mine spoils, and heavy metals tolerant. All in all, aronia is a very difficult bush to offend.
• Heavy metals safe - unlike other plants, aronia does not put heavy metals, such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, and tin, into the fruit. This means it is safe to eat the fruit even when the ground around the plant contains those heavy metals.
• Minerals - some elements that are needed in trace quantities by the body can be found in aronia berries. Some of these elements are manganese, copper, molybdenum, iodine, boron, and cobalt.

References

• http://aroniapoland.com/superfruit
• http://aroniapoland.com/scientific-publications
• http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Aronia+melanocarpa
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aronia
• http://www.hort.net/profile/ros/arome/
• http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_arme6.pdf
• http://shine.yahoo.com/healthy-living/aronia-berries--the-new-antioxidant-super-fruit-195008315.html
• https://vipasuite.com/resources/dyn/files/783678zc0720b24/_fn/ORAC_R2+Fruit-Vegetables+2010.pdf?disposition=inline
• http://www.raintreenursery.com/Berries/Aronias/
• http://onegreenworld.com/Aronia/338/
• Native Alternatives to Invasive Plants, pg. 84, 97, 101, 106, 108, 125

My Fruiting Plants

I am often engrossed in the plants that I have growing in my yard, as well as the plants that are growing the yards around mine. Most of that contemplation falls back to trying to determine how to acquire my own samples of the neat specimens that I have noticed in my neighbors' yards. However, upon reflection, I wanted to just list out what plants I have in my own yard that produce fruit, if for no other reason than to recognize just how far the yard has come since I first started "fixing" it after moving in over five years ago.

Trees

1. Apple - no idea what kind. It is a mature, standard apple that provides apples that are good for pretty much everything that we have tried to do with them. They ripen up right around the first week of October.
2. Peach - again, I have no idea what kind it is. It is a mature, standard tree. Like the apple above, it was part of the yard when I acquired the home. But the peaches are delicious. They do best for fresh eating, but, unfortunately, that only lasts so long.
3. Plumcot - I do not remember the variety name, but a plumcot is a hybrid of a plum and an apricot. The natural occurrence of this particular hybridization has been documented many times over the past couple of hundred years, but Luther Burbank is credited with determining how to make it happen. Plumcots are the stepping stones for other, more recent, hybrids, such as apriums, pluots, and peacotums. I love the fruit on my plumcot. The tree is a semi-dwarf and has been in my yard for... hmmm... I guess it has been about four years now. It is part of the first group of fruit trees that we added to the yard.
4. Cherry - I believe it is a Stella which is a red sweet cherry. It is also part of the first group, and, like all of that group, is a semi-dwarf. Around here people regularly complain about having cherry trees because they "have" to spray in order to have "good" cherries. Honestly, I love living in this area because there are so many very large cherry trees that produce loads of delicious cherries that the owners do not want. Anyway, the whole problem is that the cherries will often have a tiny worm in it. The worm is technically called a Cherry fly maggot, but the word maggot has such gross associations with it that I much prefer cherry worm. We just put the cherries through a cherry pitter and eat them whole or freeze them to use in pancakes and smoothies. If you do not actually see the worm, it is not really there, especially since it tastes like cherry. More for me. Perfect. Growing up, there was a huge mulberry tree in my yard that was the same - it had little worm-thingies crawling on the fruit. Oh well, it all tasted good. And you certainly could not tell in the mulberry pie. Anyway... moving on.
5. Apricot - just like the cherry, I do not know what variety it is. It is part of the first group. Since it blossoms before any other tree that I have, I often get just a few apricots because of late frosts. And because the tree is still quite young. I'll have to see how much it produces in a few more years to see if it is the late frosts that are really the culprit.
6. Pear - also part of the first group. It is a Twentieth Century Asian. I had not eaten Asian pears prior to picking some fruit from this tree. So far the fruit is almost more like a sweet apple than a pear, very crisp and round. But quite tasty. Especially when we give it a chance to ripen all of the way before getting impatient and eating it early.
7. Nectarine - it is also part of the first group. It is a Fantasia. The fruit has been super delicious, but they always look kind of weird with strange folds and shapes. But, as I am not one to let looks deter me, it still tastes great, which is the whole reason for growing nectarines. The yield has been rather paltry, but it is probably because the tree is still pretty young and small.
8. Apple - this is a Wynoochee Early variety. It is part of the second group of trees that I planted this spring. It is a semi-dwarf. I do not yet know how the fruit will taste, but it is supposed to be very good for an early apple.
9. Pear - this is a European pear, with the well-known pear shape - long, thin neck swelling into a round ball at the bottom. It is a Seckel, also known as a Sugar Pear. It is often known for the fact that it and Bartlett strangely find each other incompatible for pollination. I have never found an explanation as to why they do not pollinate each other, just that they do not. It is also part of the second group.
10. Quince - the quince is a pome, like apples and pears, with a core containing multiple, small seeds. The variety is Mellow, a Ukranian variety that has a tendency towards dwarfing, so it should only grow to eight or ten feet tall. I am looking forward to seeing how well it fruits in this area and how it tastes. It is part of the second group.
11. Medlar - also part of the second group, the variety is named Marron. The fruit has been popular in Europe since the Middle Ages, is chestnut brown in color, and is said to have the taste and texture of spiced applesauce. The tree only reaches six to eight feet in height. Another that I am looking forward to trying out.
12. Plum - another one from the second group, the cultivar is Brooks. It is said to produce very large, sweet, dark purple fruit. The fruit is great for fresh eating, preserves, canning and drying. Interestingly, this variety was the main variety in Oregon's dried plum industry. Hopefully it does just as well in Utah.
13. Fig - I count this as one of my trees because, well, it is mine and it is a tree. It is a Negronne and also came in the second group. I picked a specimen of that variety because it was labeled as being small and suitable for growing in a container. My hope is to eventually plant a fig in a warm microclimate in my yard, but before then I would like to become more acquainted with figs in general, as they seem to be quite different from the pome and drupe varieties with which I have experience. So, currently, I have this in a large pot out in the garden. It seemed somewhat slow to get going, but now that it is better established and the weather is quite warm and sunny, it seems to be thriving.
14. Peach - seedling that started growing in our compost pile. It survived the removal of the compost and is now in its second summer. I am letting it grow mostly just to see what happens.

Shrubs

1. Currant, Black - I have had one of these bushes for three or four years now. The berries have been less than desirable in my opinion, but the rest of the family really likes them. I think that I need to plant another black currant to improve pollination and thus have better fruit production.
2. Currant, White - two plants added last summer. They both have strings of "pearls" that are about the size of small peas. As the fruit has not yet ripened, I do not know how well I will like the fruit.
3. Currant, Red - one plant, of the Red Lake variety that I added last spring. I have not yet had fruit from it, but there is some this year. When it ripens I will try it out.
4. Gooseberry - I have one bush. This is its second summer. Last year it put on a few fruits, but this year it did not even flower. A friend says that happens when it is not watered sufficiently, which may have been the case at the very start of the growing season. But I really want to get a good crop of gooseberries. They look so tasty!
5. Aronia - this is their first summer and, even though I know it is better to pluck off any fruit, I have left the berries to ripen. And there are quite a few! I expect both plants to give me nice, dark, tart fruit that I can freeze whole and then add to my fruit smoothies for its nutritional benefits.
6. Elderberry - I think this is the plant's second or third summer, but it might as well be its first summer in my yard. I did not know much of anything about elderberry bushes when I bought it, and so it has been transplanted a couple of times and not really treated with much in the way of care and consideration. Now that I know a little more, I have been helping it get its roots under it, so to speak. It is a European variety that has been selected to be very decorative while still putting on plenty of flowers and fruit. Maybe next year I will get to try the fruit.
7. Seaberry - I have three plants, one male and two female. They are sometimes called sea buckthorn. A friend said that these plants send out a lot of suckers, have really large, sharp thorns, and the fruit is sour. I planted these this spring, so all I can say so far is that they do have long, sharp thorns. I am not too worried about the suckers. And sour fruit is fine because I can just mix them with my green grapes which are really sweet but not overly flavorful so they make a nice natural sweetener.
8. Rugosa rose - planted last year, I hope to get a good crop of rose hips, based on the hips that have formed already.
9. Serviceberry - this year these plants really put on the blossoms and the fruit. I started picking around the first week of June and am still picking the berries as they ripen. I have four plants and have picked about a quart of berries from each plant so far.
10. Goji - recently planted. I had another goji for about three summers. It never reached more than six inches in height. This new goji was two feet tall when we planted it, so it is already far and away better than the last. Hopefully I will get to try homegrown goji berries next year.

Canes

1. Blackberry - they do noticeably better when you let them become established as opposed to moving them around a couple of times each summer.
2. Red Raspberry - I do not know what varieties I have, but they produce very well. We have about four rows, each about twenty-five feet long, plus a few new tranplants growing in the chicken garden.
3. Boysenberry - I am hoping to finally get a good taste of our boysenberries. In the past we only had one plant and would only get five or six berries from it. Last year we added a whole row and, as long as they do not get lost in the garden jungle, we might get a couple of handfuls of berries.

Vines

1. Grape - the varieties that I currently have are as follows: Concord, Glenora, Canadice, Reliance, and a mature green seedless that was here when I moved in.
2. Hardy Kiwi - they were just listed as a self-fertile female (how does that work?) hardy kiwis, so I have no idea as which named variety they might be. I have two and this is their third summer. I have yet to see any flowers, much less fruit, but this is also the first year that there has been significant growth. Past years there were some watering malfunctions and they apparently do not grow very well without a good amount of sunlight and sufficient water.
3. Akebia - this is its first summer. I had two, but one just withered and died one week. :-( I will need to acquire another in order to get the fruit.

Wish List Plants

I love looking at One Green World and Raintree Nursery catalogs, going through the large selections of all kinds of plants, but most especially the perennial fruiting plants. It is almost the same as going through the Christmas catalogs when I was a kid, the only difference is that I might actually get some of the plants. Anyway, the result of the plant ogling is that I have created a list of plants that I really want to try growing in this area and finagle into doing my bidding (mwah hah hah), i.e. grow tasty fruit that makes my belly happy.

• Honeyberry, a.k.a. "Blue Honeysuckle"
• Goumi - I have a friend in the neighborhood who grows these and they seem to do okay, especially the part of the bush that gets more sunlight. But the fruit production is only so-so. The flavor reminded me of pie cherries (sometimes called "sour" cherries). I really like that goumis are nitrogen fixers, too.
• Jostaberry - hybrid of gooseberry and black currant
• Black raspberry, purple raspberry, yellow raspberry - I just want to add more colors and try the different flavors
• Shipova - hybrid of mountain ash and pear
• Black apricot - naturally occurring hybrid of Prunus armeniaca and P. cerasifera
• Peacotum - hybrid of peach, apricot and plum
• Paw paw - produces the largest edible fruit native to America, plus some say the fruit tastes like vanilla custard. Yeah, I want one... or maybe two.
• Persimmon - I want to really try to promote native American fruit, 
• Mulberry - I grew up with a mulberry tree and I really enjoyed them. And maybe it will keep the birds out of the cherries.
• Pomegranate (in a pot) - exotic plant that would heighten my hard core grower status just by having one. Actually getting fruit from it would just be gravy. Sweet, delicious gravy.
• Jujubes - I think that name just sounds cool, which is enough for me to want to grow the tree. Add on the fact that it produces edible fruit and I'm convinced. It needs hot summers to ripen which makes me wonder why it is not regularly grown here because it has been plenty hot.
• Maypop - native to the eastern U.S., it is a passionfruit vine that dies back in the winter and pops out of the ground in may. The flowers are exquisite and exotic. Plus, I want to eat my own passionfruit.
• Almond - my favorite nut might taste even better if I could grow my own
• Yellowhorn - nitrogen-fixer that produces small nuts. Another nut tree that does not take up most of the yard.
• Bamboo (specifically Phyllostachys nuda) - building material, edible, just plain neat.
• Blood orange (in a pot) - some of the best tasting fruit that I have ever eaten. With this and the pomegranate I could really get started on my indoor orchard.
• Prickly pear - I know it grows wild in much of the western U.S., but I have seen and tasted how much better the fruit is when it gets a modicum of attention. And the results were delicious.

Do you grow or have you grown any of these plants? How did it go? Would you recommend any of them? Why or why not?

Specimen Spotlight: Sunflower

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Field of sunflowers - Source

Sunflowers are well-known by most people. You can often see them in fields that you pass as you drive along. Many people will grow a few in a garden. Let's explore the benefits of these North American natives.

• Edible - flower buds, petals, seeds, sprouts ← especially tasty!
• Bird friendly - birds love to perch on sunflowers once the stalks begin to stiffen. They also love to peck out the seeds in late summer and fall. FYI, there will be a lot of sunflowers coming up in that spot in the spring because more seeds tend to fall out than are actually eaten by the birds.
• Poultry plant - naturally, sunflower seeds are good for chickens and other poultry. Most chickens will eat the seeds straight from the heads. Chickens and ducks will enjoy sunflower starts or the new leaves on larger sunflowers, however, chickens especially tend to turn their beaks up at the larger, older leaves because they are not as tender, as long as they have other alternatives. They also like sunflower petals. Besides food, when many are grown together they provide a shady area for chickens to scratch around or have dust baths. And, when they have grown a few feet, sunflowers are sturdy enough that you do not need to worry about poultry damaging them.
• Rabbit friendly - rabbits like to chew on the shells and eat the seeds. They will also eat the young plants if they do not have access to much in the way of green plants, but it is best to not let them eat too many
• Wind break - especially great when you need a wind break now and not in ten years, although do not expect it to do as much as a wind break using trees. However, it does an admirable job of protecting small shrubs and herbaceous plants. Sunflowers work especially well if you are able to plant them on an elevated location, thus increasing their effective height and, in consequence, their ability to block the wind.
• Green manure - this refers to a cover crop that is grown with the intent of being used also as a means of adding fertility to the soil via decomposing plant material. Sepp Holzer includes sunflowers as one of the species in a list of good green manure plants because of the large amount of leaves in a relatively short time.
• Slope stabilization - used in a mix of other plants to improve steep slopes' ability to remain in place and absorb moisture during rainfall, thus preventing erosion and soil fertility loss.
• Honey plant - bees like sunflowers because they provide a lot of good pollen and nectar, and the resulting honey is reputed to be quite delicious
• Insectary - not just bees like sunflowers. I have seen many different types of insects stopping by the sunflower snack bar. Lacewings and parasitic wasps are also known to be frequent visitors of blooming sunflowers.
• Sun trap - when organized in a U-shape with the open end facing south, you can create a sun trap as a means of creating a warm microclimate inside the U.
• Nutrient accumulator - sunflowers will find trace amounts of calcium, manganese, copper, and zinc in the earth and then store these minerals in their leaves. When the leaves die and decompose, the minerals become readily available to other plants.
• Mulch maker - the leaves and thin stalks are especially good as mulch
• Medicinal
• Flowers! - besides fresh flowers, you can also dry the flowers for decorative uses
• Poles - last year's sunflower "trunks" work great as tipi trellis poles
• Drought tolerant - when well established
• Full sun - um, yeah, sunflower. 'Nuf said.
• Inner pith - the inside of the stalk is one of the lightest naturally occurring substances and is used for all kinds of things, including life-saving devices
• Dye - flowers can be used to make a yellow dye. A purple-black dye can be made from the seeds of a certain variety used by the Hopi Native American tribe.
• Fuel and kindling - when dried, the stalk can be used as fuel for a fire. The resulting ash is high in potassium. The branches and the seed shells are good kindling.
• Fiber - found in the stalk, it is used to make both paper and fine quality cloth
• Roots - these can go as much as ten feet deep and also have a significant lateral spread
• Tall - not all sunflowers are tall - I have one variety that only reaches two feet - but some varieties can get to twelve feet or more in height.
• Companion - while not friendly towards potatoes or pole beans, sunflowers typically grow very well with cucumbers, melons and corn.
• Heliotropic? - this means the movement of a plant part in relation to the position of the sun. A common belief is that sunflowers follow the movement of the sun through the sky. While this is true for unopened flower buds, once the flower opens it remains in a fixed location.
• Phytoremediation and rhizofiltration - these big words mean that sunflowers are used to clean up the environment, such as removing toxins from the soil and harmful bacteria from water. They were even used to clean up Chernobyl and are in use in response to the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster.
• Latex - some development programs are in place to create a variety of sunflower that can be used to manufacture nonallergenic rubber
• Allelopath - some varieties exude a substance that deters other plants from growing in the vicinity of the sunflower. I must add, though, that it does not seem to affect much in my garden except potatoes and pole beans.

References

• Sepp Holzer's Permaculture: A Practical Guide to Small-Scale, Integrative Farming and Gardening, pg. 38, 58, 60, 61, 64
• Gaia's Garden, Second Edition: A Guide To Home-Scale Permaculture, pg. 39, 41, 133, 136, 170,  203
• http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Helianthus+annuus
• Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening, pg. 7, 16, 20
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helianthus_annuus
• Free-Range Chicken Gardens: How to Create a Beautiful, Chicken-Friendly Yard, pg. 127